There are a lot of philodendron fans out there who thought they’d never be disloyal, especially to anthuriums.

But the funny thing about being the largest genus in the Araceae family (with over 1,000 species) is that you’re bound to have some type of Anthurium for everyone.

For philodendron lovers, that undeniable catch is the queen anthurium, Anthurium warocqueanum.

Hailing from Columbia and named in honor of the Belgian plant enthusiast M. Warocqué, this impressive perennial climber is a bit more challenging to grow than many of its siblings, but the rewards are undeniable.

Her leaves start deceptively small but quickly grow to immense size, dwarfing everything else in your collection.

Queen Anthurium Care

Size & Growth

The height of the queen anthurium is only about 6’ feet when properly supported, although it often only grows to about 3’ feet indoors.

The real show is with its light to dark green, velvety leaves, however.

Each leaf has silvery veins which become more pronounced with age and are as thick and sturdy as cardboard.

They start pretty small and may be only 5” to 8” inches as they approach maturity but can then expand to lengths of up to 4’ feet.

Being the queen of all anthuriums, this lady loves to be pampered and will tell you through her foliage if you’re not catering to her wishes.

A happy plant will add new leaves to the existing ones.

Unhappy plants will drop a leaf each time a new one develops.

As a result, owners often gauge their success based on how many leaves the plant retains.


Flowering and Fragrance

As with monsteras and other fellow aroids, the queen anthurium has insignificant blooms that appear on a small spathe usually hidden by the pale yellowish-green spadix.

Given the proper conditions, the inflorescence will give way to small, light red berries that attract birds.

The seeds are excreted onto tree branches, where they take root.

Light & Temperature

This plant loves the light but, in nature, grows up the sides of trees.

Its leaves can scorch easily if exposed to direct sunlight for too long.

Instead, aim for bright, indirect sunlight or dappled light.

It may be possible for this plant to grow in mild to partial shade, but keep an eye on the leaves if you do and move it to a sunnier spot if you see any yellowing.

Queen anthurium needs moderate to high humidity, and you should aim for 70% percent for the best possible results.

Be sure to augment the ambient humidity as needed with a humidifier or pebble tray, and make sure the ambient humidity doesn’t drop below 55% percent.

Ironically, the high humidity can also lead to fungal infections on the leaves, so place it somewhere with good air circulation.

As a result, this plant may not play well with other tropical plants that hate drafts.

You will also need to pay attention to the ambient temperature.

This particular Anthurium prefers slightly warmer temperatures than its kin, preferably in the range of 65 to 85° degrees Fahrenheit. If you live outside USDA hardiness zones 10a to 11, you should bring your queens in when the temperature drops to 60° degrees Fahrenheit, as anything below 55° degrees Fahrenheit can damage them.

Watering and Feeding

Being an epiphyte, there’s a good chance your Anthurium isn’t potted in soil.

The plant will tell you when it’s not getting enough water because the leaves will begin to thin and wilt or even fall off.

To avoid this, check the potting medium every few days for moisture.

If the surface feels dry, give it a gentle watering with room temperature distilled water or rainwater until it begins to seep out of the drainage holes.

Try not to get any water on the plant itself, as it can be very sensitive.

In fall and winter, you should cut back on watering, and the plant will generally only need some watering once every 2 to 3 weeks.

Feeding may vary a little depending on your plant’s health and size.

Generally, use a light, balanced liquid fertilizer at ¼ strength every two weeks in spring and summer, pausing for fall and winter.

Meanwhile, keep an eye on your plant.

If an older leaf begins to die when a new one appears, you may need to increase the feeding frequency slightly.

However, if you see signs of scorching or other chemical damage, reduce the frequency of feedings.

Soil & Transplanting

As mentioned, your queen anthurium is an epiphyte, meaning it usually grows on other plants.

Most growers don’t bother with using soil and instead use either sphagnum moss or an equal mix of sphagnum and orchid bark.

You may also use a well-draining aroid mix, amended as needed with perlite and within a pH range of 6.6 to 7.5.

Wooden orchid baskets are perfect for this plant, but you may also use clay or terra cotta pots with a support totem.

Repotting may not be possible if the plant has rooted into the pot itself.

Grooming And Maintenance

Prune mainly to remove diseased leaves, although you may also remove a badly damaged leaf to encourage new growth.

How To Propagate Anthurium warocqueanum

You may propagate this plant through division, offshoots, or stem cuttings.

While growing from seeds is possible, it has a low success rate.

Queen Anthurium Pests or Diseases

Avoid getting your anthurium cold.

It can become infected by the usual suspects: aphids, mealybugs, scale, spider mites, and thrips.

The large leaves make the plant susceptible to bacterial and fungal infections, as well.

Being an aroid, the plant contains calcium oxalate crystals, which are toxic to humans and pets.

Anthurium warocqueanum Uses

This is a great choice for a corner plant or for hanging baskets it can climb.

It’s also good bundled with smaller plants to better show off its leaves.


Queen Anthurium Warocqueanum: Growing and Care

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